210/240 Fat Tire/Wheel Kit
Introduction:
Installation of the 210 kits requires a minor modification to both the swingarm as well as the inner fender rail. The 240 mod requires a complete change out of the swingarm as well as the rear fender. If you are buying these kits and plan to install one yourself, please think about all of the items you will need to complete your project such as:
Full set of Metric wrenches, sockets, Allen wrenches, torque wrenches, Molly paste & grease, bike jack, roll around auto jack (optional), and small hydraulic post jack (optional).
The following tutorial relates primarily to the installation of the 210 kit but is useful for installing a 240 kit as well. Let's begin. J
Fender Removal:
Begin the process by jacking up the bike and securing it. Remove the right side panel to expose the wiring, if removing the fender for replacement or modification. Unplug the wiring harness that comes from the rear fender and push it back through the hole in the fender. Support the rear wheel of the bike with the auto jack and remove both shocks. You only need to jack up the tire just enough to take the weight off of it creating a neutral weight condition.
After having removed the shocks, apply some painters tape along the length of the fender both above and below the outer fender grab rail. Get the tape as close to the rails as possible, if not a bit behind them. There is a small amount of room between the rail and fender where you can sometimes feed the tape behind it a bit. Now remove all of the bolts in the outer fender grab rail. Be careful not to damage the paint. The fender will want to drop and tilt as you remove these bolts. You may now safely and carefully feed the rear fender back and out of the frame. Re-assembly is the same except use painters tape on the insides of the frame supports and well as along the sides of the fender so that as you slide the new fender inside the frame rails, you don�t scuff the paint. It is not necessary to remove the outer grab rail completely to remove the fender, but it does make the job a lot easier. The rail will be held in place by the upper shock tower stud. If you wish to remove the outer rail in order to make fender removal or re-installation easier (recommended), just remove the upper shock stud with a 10mm Allen drive and the whole assembly will come off.
Rear Wheel Removal:
Next we focus on the rear wheel itself. It is handy here to take a small hydraulic screw post type jack and sit it under the front portion of the swingarm. I like to take a short piece of 2'x4' about 18� long and lay it across the bottom rearmost portion of the swingarm, just ahead of the pivot bolt location. This small jack is to be used to stabilize and adjust the height of the swingarm during our work. The post jack is centered under the 2'x4'. The 2'x4' is located perpendicular to the length of the bike.
Crank the small jack up until the post just touches the 2'x4' and exerts just a small bit of pressure on it. Now you can lower the car jack from under the rear tire and roll it out and away for the time being. Unbolt and remove the brake caliper. It may be possible to take the small hose brackets loose and give yourself enough slack to leave the caliper connected to the hose and tie it back out of your way. Make sure you lay some nice cloth or something between the caliper and the exhaust pipes as the caliper will tend to lie on top of the pipes and will otherwise scratch them. Also, do not let the caliper hang by the hose. Next thing I want you to do is to take a large rag or protective cloth and wrap it around the rear portion of the exhaust pipes and tape it snug. This will prevent any of our work from scratching the pipes.
You are now ready to remove the wheel. Locate the rear wheel axle. The right side has a large locknut and the left side has an Allen head end. Insert your Allen wrench into the axle to hold the axle while turning the locknut counterclockwise to loosen it.
The locknut is a large metric size but I use an SAE wrench that is 1 1/16� and it fits perfectly. The Allen end of the axle is different for the 1300 and the 1800. The 1300's use a 8mm Allen wrench, while the 1800's use a 12mm Allen wrench.
Once the locknut is off, take a rubber hammer and tap the axle out the left side of the bike. If you can�t get a straight hit on it because of the exhaust in the way, then use a drift pin to reach past the exhaust and tap it through. As the axle starts to move to the left, you will be able to remove the rear brake caliper bracket as it clears the bracket. Lay that to the side making sure not to lose the small keeper clip that is attached to it. Next is the small spacer between the wheel bearing and the caliper bracket. Remove that too, and set to the side. Once the axle is flush with the right side wheel hub, you can try to pull the axle out from the left side of the final drive housing. It may help to turn it a bit as you pull on it. If it does not come out easily, go back to the right side and use a small drift pin to tap the axle through to the right side and remove.
Once the axle is out, the rear wheel will be held in place only by its engagement with the final drive assembly so be careful not to let it fall. Stabilize the wheel and slide the wheel away from the final drive or to the right side of the bike until it disengages from the final drive. At this point, the wheel and drive flange assembly will drop down and feed out of the back of the bike as you allow the auto jack to lower.
Congratulations, you are well on your way! J
Rear Wheel Disassembly and Re-assembly:
Take your stock wheel and begin to strip it down. You will need the parts and you must get the wheel ready to send back for your core credit. You will need to remove the bearings, internal spacer, and seal. These bearings can be left in if you wish, because your new rim has bearings installed already.
Remove the entire assembly from the left side (drive side) of your wheel. Remove the large snap ring, the small O-ring off the wheel hub, the internal rubber dampeners, drive flange, etc. You will need to re-install this stuff in your new wheel. Be sure to torque everything to spec and use locktight as indicated by your Honda shop manual.
Also, remove the rotor assembly from the right side of the wheel and re-install it on the new wheel making sure to torque the 6 rotor bolts in a criss-cross pattern to spec. Set your new rear wheel to the side.
Removal of Final Drive from Swingarm:
Take loose the 4 bolts that secure the final drive to the swingarm. Gently pull the final drive straight back from the swingarm until it disengages. The drive shaft will most probably come out with the final drive. Pull the drive shaft out of the final drive and set it to the side. Be careful not to lose the spring that inserts into the end of the drive shaft. Set the final drive and plastic trim ring to the side and be sure to prop it up a bit so the vent is higher than the filler, or oil may drain out of the drive.
Removal of Swingarm:
You may now remove the swingarm. To do so, you will need a 17mm Allen head wrench or Allen socket drive. If you have a helper, the second person can lift up on the axle end of the swingarm and take the weight off of it while you unbolt it from the frame and help to guide it straight out the back of the bike. If not, then you can take the small post hydraulic jack and by using a small piece of 2'x4' under the swingarm, crank up the jack under the axle end of the swingarm until it is more or less level. Take loose the locknut on the right side of the swingarm pivot bolt.
A handy trick I have learned about taking this locknut loose is to use a medium sized punch to remove it. Apply the punch to the locknut and tap it in a counterclockwise direction until it spins freely. It will take a brisk couple of taps to loosen it but once it is loose, it turns by hand the rest of the way out. After the locknut has been removed, and using your 17mm Allen wrench, unscrew the right side pivot bolt about half way out.
Switch to the left side of the bike, and unscrew the left side pivot pin out all the way. Hold on to the left side of the swingarm as you remove the pivot bolt so it doesn�t fall down. Back over to the right side of the bike, remove the pivot pin complete now and support the front of the swingarm as it exits the bike from the rear.
Remove the left and right side bearing/seal assemblies from the swingarm. They will fall out in your hand. Keep these for later re-installation in your new modified swingarm. Do not under any circumstances attempt to remove the bearing races that are left in the swingarm. Your new swingarm will come with races installed and ready to accept the bearings from your old swingarm. Set the bearings and swingarm to the side.
If the articulating joint (yoke/u-joint assembly) is still on the engine output shaft, remove it at this time and clean all the old grease off of it with an old rag. Set it to the side. Do not worry about orientation, both ends are identical.
There is a rubber boot that sits between the engine output shaft housing and the swingarm. This keeps water out of the assembly. Set it to the side also, or if still installed on engine, leave alone at this time.
Congratulations, disassembly is complete and we are about to begin the installation of your new wheel and tire.
Swingarm Re-installation:
Apply a light coating of Molly grease to the bearings and install them in the new swingarm you are about to install. Also, apply a medium amount of Molly paste on both ends of the drive shaft yoke as well as the engine output shaft. Slide the yoke onto the output shaft of the engine. Don�t forget to install the rubber boot also that goes between the left side of the swingarm and the engine.
Now you can feed the new swingarm into place and visually line up the bearings with the pivot pin hole locations in the frame. Hold the swingarm in place and feed the left side pivot pin into place by screwing it in clockwise and hand tighten.
Move to the right side of the swingarm and after applying a light but uniform coating of �blue� locktight on the threads, install the right side pivot pin in the same manner, hand tighten.
Return to the left side of the bike and using a torque wrench, tighten the left pivot pin to spec per the service manual.
You may now return to the right side of the bike. The right side pivot pin determines the actual torque to the two bearing set of the swingarm and creates a pre-load condition. If you have a way to torque the right side per spec, you may do so now. After having done so, move the swingarm up and down and be sure there is no binding or feeling of dragging.
If you do not have a way to set torque on the right side pivot bolt, you may set it by �feel�. If ever you have set the torque by hand on a front wheel bearing on an automobile, this is very similar. Adjust the pivot clockwise with your Allen wrench until it is very snug. Then back off the adjustment until the pivot is just a bit snug. Move the swingarm up and down. As you do so, continue to tighten the pivot a little at a time. As soon as the tightening results in the swingarm feeling tight going up and down or a feeling of dragging, back off on the adjustment until it is just free. This is where you will leave the pivot pin adjusted. Taking a felt tip marker put a mark on the pivot pin head and another mark on the frame for reference. This will be used to be sure the pivot pin adjustment does not change. Wait 30 minutes for the locktight to cure. Now you may apply a light coating of blue locktight on the threads of the right side pivot pin locknut. Install the locknut and hand tighten. Assuming you are not using the special Honda tool, you may now tighten the locknut until it is set by way of using a large drift pin or flat nosed punch with an end diameter of roughly ��. By using the punch and a hammer, you can tap the locknut around in a clockwise manner until it is sufficiently tight. After having done so, inspect the orientation marks you have made on the pivot pin head and the frame to be sure the pivot pin has not moved or changed value.
Congratulations, the swingarm is now complete.
Drive Shaft Re-installation:
Inspect the drive shaft for damage. Clean off any old grease and re-apply a new coating of Molly Paste to the male spline at the engine side of the shaft as well as the female spline on the final drive end. It�s a good idea to replace the grease seal that slides over the end of the drive shaft and sits on a shoulder near the final drive. Make sure the small compression spring remains in the female end of the drive shaft and doesn�t fall during assembly.
Holding the shaft by the female end, carefully feed it into the open end of the swingarm until it stops against the yoke. We now want to help the male end of the drive shaft engage the female end of the yoke/U-joint. It is necessary to lift up on the front of the shaft to help it align with the yoke. It is useful to look into the opening with a flashlight to see the position of the yoke and to help navigate the shaft end into the yoke. It is also useful to take the bike in or out of gear to get just the right positioning of the yoke. Persistence here will pay off. You must push and turn and lift all at the same time. Eventually, it will engage.
Another thing, which may greatly help, is for you to lower the swingarm and let it hang down unsupported or to support it in a position vertically that allows the shaft to better line up with it. Once the drive shaft fully engages the yoke, you will feel it push in and fully seat. The rear end of the drive shaft will be just short of flush with the swingarm flange face when properly seated.
Re-installation of the Final Drive and Rear Wheel Assembly:
This is a tricky part of the installation and requires a bit of patience.
Make sure you have installed the rubber dampeners and drive flange assembly on your wheel. Make sure you have installed your rotor on the wheel and torqued to spec. With the bike jacked up and supported, sit your wheel and tire assembly on the car jack. Align the jack with the rear of the bike and carefully slide the jack up close to the swingarm. Two sets of hands here are useful, although I do these all the time by myself.
Now, take your final drive assembly and align it with the wheel drive flange and push the final drive on to the gear and fully seat it against the drive flange. Make sure that before you install this part of the job, you have first coated the drive flange and final drive gear with Molly Paste per the service manual. Also, be sure you have installed your trim ring.
Now, holding the wheel and final drive all together as an assembly. Carefully slide the jack forward while at the same time, cranking up on the jack handle to align the final drive studs with the swingarm flange holes. Make sure this is lined up level and correctly from side to side. When you are sure of this, slide the final drive forward until the drive shaft starts to engage the final drive and the studs begin to engage the flange holes.
At this point you will need to push the assembly together and as it all meshes and aligns, it will seem to fall into place. Install all four of the nuts on the flange. Leave two of them loose and hand tighten the other two for the moment. Leaving them loose gives us an extra bit of fudge room while trying to align everything.
Feed the axle into the final drive until it appears on the other side, but does not protrude past the bearing face. You should now be able to eye the alignment of the right side to see if the axle is lined up with the axle hole in the swingarm. Make any needed adjustments. Now you can slide the axle spacer into place and seat it into the wheels seal. Slide the axle in a bit further now until it is even with the spacer face.
Great controversy exists over this next part of the instructions in terms of what works best. There are a couple of ways to do this next part. Your next job is to install the brake caliper and bracket assembly.
If you are able now to slide the caliper into place over the rotor and align it with the axle, do so. Some wheel and tire and rotor combos will allow you to do this.
If not, it may be useful to pull the caliper loose from the bracket. The bracket can be installed and the caliper can be added next. Be sure you are careful working around a chromed wheel and chromed exhaust here. It is very easy to scratch things up while doing this. I usually take some painters tape and cover the exhaust pipes and wheel in the area where I am working. Once the caliper bracket is in place, slide the axle through the caliper bracket and through the swingarm hole. You may have to adjust things up or down, front to back, to get the axle to float through that hole. In some rare cases, the tolerances here are very tight and the caliper bracket is a bit too thick to fit between the spacer and swingarm. If this should be the case, take nylon or wood wedge and a cloth or towel to protect it, and wedge it between the rotor face and the swingarm. You must only gently tap this into place with a hammer to spread the swingarm. Any dimensional differences here should be in the thousandths.
Tap the axle all the way in until it is fully seated. Tighten your final drive flange nuts in a criss-cross pattern and torque to spec. Install the axle locknut and torque to spec.
Spin the wheel by hand. All should be free and smooth except for a bit of dragging coming from the brake pads.
Final Button Up
You are essentially through here except for the obvious small pieces and parts that must be re-installed to finish the job.
Install shocks now, fender, if removed, can be re-installed now as well.
I will remind you once again, that if you are re-installing a fender here, care must be taken not to scratch the sides of the fender. I use painters tape here to cover all potential trouble spots.
Now, go test drive your bike and enjoy!!
Install Instructions For Newly Chromed or Polished Final Drive
Congratulations on the purchase of your chromed or polished final drive. The drain is tightened to spec with a new crush washer on it. The filler is hand tight also with new O-ring on it. You will need to install the unit and fill with fluid. I suggest installing this unit, and while on the jack, add fluid slowly until it starts to come out the filler hole. Then snug the filler plug. Spin the wheel now several times before lowering the bike off the jack. Once the bike is off the jack and on its sidestand, and preferably with an extra chunk of wood such as a 1 x, under the stand, put a pan under the final drive and open the filler and let the excess out. This final drive is dry as a bone and will need to take fluid into the bearings and parts. It will be a good idea to check this after the first hundred miles. Do not over-tighten that filler when done. It only needs to be nice and snug. Do not use an abrasive of any kind to clean this housing after install. Use nothing but a spray and wipe detailer or Windex and very soft rag. Make sure you add Molly paste to the drive shaft end, the final drive input gear, the wheel drive flange hub, and the final drive gear. Make sure you torque the 4 final drive bolts to spec and its a good idea to use a bit of anti seize on the threads and underside of the head of those acorn nuts.
Good luck
� Gateway Xtreme
 |
